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October 16, 2007

GEM ALERT: NELSONS COTTAGE, SAN FRANCISCO

Some of the most special vacation rentals—the real gems—are ingeniously hidden out of sight. You certainly won't find this charming Provencal-style guest cottage -- nestled into the garden of an exquisitely restored Victorian a block from hip Union Street boutiques and restaurants-- on HomeAway.com!

If you’ve ever had fantasies about living in what I still insist is the world’s most beautiful city, indulge them with a week (or three) at Nelsons Cottage near the stylish boutiques, bakeries and restaurants of Union Street. Here's why:

Location, Location, Location. If you love to walk, Ghirardelli Square, Fisherman’s Wharf (where you can catch a cable car to Chinatown and fashionable Union Square) and even the Golden Gate Bridge are easily in reach. The spectacular vistas and mansions of Pacific Heights are a lung-tweaking hike of only a few blocks. Anywhere else in the city is easily accessible via bus or taxi. (In other words, no car necessary!)   

Personal welcome. Perfect for:  Honeymooners, a pair of friends or a family with small children (even two couples who don’t mind sharing the single luxe bathroom). This cozy cottage is buffered from city sounds by lush lawns and gardens. You’ll be pampered by the owners’ feel-like-family generosity —everything from fresh flowers to a personal “Welcome Book” guiding you step by step to personally recommended restaurants, shops and city sights. (So much nicer than a handful of cheesy brochures doled out at most hotels!)  

On the counter of the eat-in kitchen, I found a wicker basket with a selection of teas, a box of granola, a bag of Peet’s ground beans and Starbucks Decaf House Blend and packets of hot chocolate. On the kitchen table, a vase of yellow daffodils and bowl of fresh fruit: pears, apples, a plum, a melon and a handful of Clementines. In the fridge: orange juice; a carton of strawberry yogurt; low-fat milk and half & half; a liter of fresh water, and. a bottle of good Chardonnay.I felt cared for in a way I never have in any five-star hotel.

Comfortably un-frilly. The vintage 1910 cottage is dressed in the colors of Provence—sunny yellow, lavender, lime and light blue—with beautifully restored wood floors and crown molding. One bedroom off the living room is almost filled with a king-sized bed. Another, off the kitchen is outfitted as an office, but can sleep two on a fold-out couch. It also opens to a small wood deck. Backed by a soaring cement wall, it is very private, if a bit dank.

The living room has all the modern conveniences—satellite TV, DVD/CD player, stereo—plus a brushed steel woodstove and ceiling spots for easy reading. The bathroom is like a spa—high-style fixtures including an extra deep square tub/shower, terry-lined robes and lush Hauts de Provence Fig Bath Soap

Even if this is your first visit to San Franciscoespecially if it is!—Nelsons Cottage is as good as it gets.

September 06, 2006

HERALDING THE 'NEW' HEALDSBURG

It's all the rage these days. "Move over Napa," says the Washington Post. "Healdsburg has gone upscale on us," says Sunset magazine. Travel + Leisure dubs the town "Sonoma's New Star." 

The cosmopolitan-izing of Healdsburg leaves me a little wistful for the old days. I loved the small town feel around the plaza. And I'm glad to see that -- despite the addition of the Les Mars Hôtel (which Sunset Magazine says "feels more like Louis XIV’s Loire Valley than today’s Sonoma County") -- there are still magazines counting down its simpler pleasures.

Places evolve. (It's all good.) So, by all means, check out some of these recommendations of the Washington Post food critic in Postcard from Healdsburg.  And get the lowdown on shopping and the latest boutique wineries from Travel + Leisure before you visit.

And should you opt to stay at a vacation rental, consider trading "Louis XIV's Loire Valley" for the real thing --  "Redwood Tree House" (recommended in Renting Paradise).   

August 12, 2006

SONOMA COUNTY VACATION RENTALS UPDATE: KENWOOD HOUSE

In the words of a previous guest: "From the moment we unlocked the door ... music, flowers, wine. We knew we chose the right place."

1998, a year before we married, my husband and I spent a summer weekend wine-tasting in Sonoma County. We have pictures of ourselves feasting on fresh strawberries (bought at the field-side stand on Hwy. 12) and dipped in a gooey fudge sauce we bought in The Wine Room next door. Our view: vineyard-laced hills rivaling Tuscany with a signs pointing to about a dozen wineries. We didn’t have a clue that we were only a block from a romantic vacation rental (more private and romantic than our B&B room in Healdsburg!).

Fast-forward eight years and a couple of seasons. The scenery was the same—except for a lush carpet of winter green. This time, we traded our cramped B&B room for a stylish two-bedroom bungalow called Kenwood House.

For only $350 a weekend night (less during the week). Just for fun, I checked the rates for the comparably stylish MacArthur Place—a boutique hotel that (justifiably) gets a lot of buzz in downtown Sonoma. A “King Guestroom” will set you back $375 per night. A “Queen Guestroom,” is $349. You get both at the Kenwood House—if you bring another couple, you can spend that extra $375 a day on local wines and great dinners.   

Now, I’m certainly not knocking MacArthur Place. I’m just saying you can stay at Kenwood House which offers comparable quality for much less.

Note you will forego the full-bathroom in each room at the Kenwood House (a deal-breaker for some.) And the continental breakfast. But very little else. Robes? Check. Hot tub? Just steps from your bedroom. Wood-burning fireplace? The woodstove-insert provides plenty of warmth and atmosphere. Satellite TV. Internet access. Music. Professionally landscaped grounds. For its style and amenities this vacation rental is one of the best deals I’ve seen.

But for many vacation renters it’s not so much the price, it’s the welcoming energy. As a reviewer, I poke my nose into a lot of guest books and, frankly, I’ve never seen a guestbook so gushing with praise—for years. Wrapped in a comforter, I read for hours — sharing the details of reunions, small celebrations and leisurely wine-tasting trips. When more than a few guests promised “We’ll be back!” -- I was skeptical … until I found new entries the next year!