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December 01, 2006

THE JOYS OF THE OFF-SEASON

“I love Sonoma in the winter …” ?

During the fall harvest, Sonoma Valley is teeming with tourists. And it can be hot. Very hot. The vine-covered hillsides are parched yellow. Good restaurants have humbling-ly long waits.  

Which makes off-season trips look pretty darn good. According to Adrien Glover in “Suddenly Sonoma” (Budget Travel Online, Feb. 18, 2005): “Springtime is still considered ‘off season’ but it’s an excellent time to visit. Not only are plum trees, quince, and yellow wild mustard flowers in bloom, you're almost certain to land a good deal at an area hotel. And there’s plenty to do year-round.”

My husband and I spent a wonderful early March weekend exploring Kenwood. From our home base at a stylish yet cozy rental, aptly named Kenwood House (look for a full review of this rental right here in the coming weeks), we ventured out to explore nearly deserted tasting rooms. Winemakers aren’t busy at this time of year so you can actually spend time chatting with one.

Because it had been an unusually rainy winter (we had hail and snow during our visit), the landscape was lush green, with Spanish moss dangling from bare branches of valley oak trees. We lingered at the fascinating Bartholomew Park Winery Museum. We enjoyed a delightful hike to the remains of Wolf House in Jack London State Park. We were seated right away at some very good restaurants, including the new Doce Lunas, where there was a guitarist playing at the bar and signature sticky toffee for dessert. At night, we cozied up to the woodstove and watched movies.

Most of my review trips are planned during the off-season. I’m so spoiled, now I won’t go any other time.

HINT: Treat yourself to a trip during the “shoulder” weeks—just before some invisible bell clangs and the high season floodgates open on throngs of tourists. You may never subject yourself to that kind of madness again.